Jodie and I spent new year’s on the Tasman Peninsula. Spectacular hikes. Highly recommended. We stayed in an Airbnb in White Beach, a sleepy town about a 15 minute drive from Port Arthur. We had a beautiful view of the bay and an echidna in the back yard.
Before making our way to the peninsula we spent a day at MONA — the Museum for Old and New Art. It was one of the best museums I’ve been to. Art I’m still thinking about:
- Breathing in/breathing out. Marina Abramović and Ulay block their noses then share a single breath until they nearly pass out. Performed twice and captured on video. Catches the eye as a weird looking kiss until you realise what is going on. Art Must Be Beautiful, Artist Must Be Beautiful is also on display, which is similarly disturbing. I wasn’t aware of Abramović before this, she is very good.
- Larry Hayes, Texas, September 10, 2003. / Patricia Desmedt, Waregem, November 27, 2007. Patrick Guns takes the last meal requests from prisoners on death row and has leading chefs interpret them. Grim. He made a whole series.
- Proud Mary. Daniel Mudie Cunningham records himself every five years lip-synching to Tina Turner’s Proud Mary. His long term commitment to something that brings so much joy in turn brings me joy.
- III Crossing. Junebum Park places giant hands into an overhead video of a street crossing. Cute.
I ran solo to Cape Huay and Cape Pillar, two of the three infamous “three capes.” I didn’t realise you have to go anti-clockwise so had to backtrack, which meant I missed the connecting segment but only added about half an hour. Definitely should have routed Cape Pillar first! Copped some brutal wind and rain at times but plenty of clear weather too.
Dinner at 1830, the restaurant at Port Arthur Historic Site. Serviceable vegan options.
Tunnel Bay and Shipstern Bluff. You can connect this trail up to Cape Raoul but we decided to split it into two (see tomorrow), as there is little intersection between the two and it makes for a pretty big hiking day doing both.
In the afternoon we did a short hike from Remarkable Cave to Maignon Blowhole and back.
Dinner at On The Bay, which was excellent. Would have loved to go back but they were closed for the rest of our trip.
Returned to the same trailhead as yesterday to hike out to Cape Raoul, the “third” cape. We were the first people on the trail and had it to ourselves the whole way out.
Lunch at Port Arthur Lavender farm, which was average. Tried lavender malt liquor which we expected to be terrible, but wasn’t!
In the afternoon we hiked a short way from our accomodation out to a smaller cape looking out to Wedge Island, with more fantastic rocks.
Tasman Arch to Waterfall Bay had the most consistently stunning views of the trip. We also checked out the Tessellated Pavement at Pirates Bay which was pretty cool.
Back in Hobart before our flight, we got fried chick’n at Rude Boy for dinner … followed by a cheeky taco next door at Grinners. Both very good.
Tasmania is beautiful. You should go.